48 Hours: Spain’s Celorio offers coastal views, rich history without the crowds

Posted October 3, 2016

By KATY VIDAURRETA

CELORIO, Spain– Celorio is one of 28 parishes in Llanes, a city within the province of Asturias, in Spain. Asturias is one of the northernmost regions of Spain. With a beautiful northern coast and rich history, the region is absolutely spectacular, but rarely visited. Most of the tourists in Asturias are from other parts of Spain and people travel very seldom from outside the country because its beauty is not well known. That is about to change. This 48- hour guide will take you on a journey of the best beaches, activities and food that Celorio has to offer.

This photo, taken from the highest point of Celorio, showcases its natural beauty. (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta)

This photo, taken from the highest point of Celorio, showcases its natural beauty (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta).

Friday

12 p.m.-3 p.m.— Monasterio de San Salvador

Looking over the beach sits a stunning church with an attached monastery and gardens called el Monasterio de San Salvador. From 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., the church welcomes visitors to admire the beautiful altar. Tours of the gardens must be arranged in advance by calling the monastery. The gardens are overflowing with different types of flowers and feature a historic stone staircase that was built during the Spanish Civil War. There is a cemetery behind the church where the town’s founders and their families are buried. A key to enter the cemetery can be requested inside the church. Also behind the church, but closed to the public, is a church-owned property that has the best view in town. The land is several acres large and is home to several wild horses. Catch a glimpse of the property from the lookout located next to the cemetery.

3-5 p.m.— Lunch at La Tortulia 

La Tortulia is located next to the town’s largest beach, Playa Palombina. The restaurant is well known for its tostas and sartenes. Tostas are basically open-faced sandwiches but with a twist. The combinations of toppings are endless and range from peppers and chicken to octopus and mushrooms. Sartenes are bowls layered with freshly made French fries, meat or seafood of your choosing, and a sunny side up egg. The two dishes are an absolute must try for people looking for an interesting twist on Spanish cuisine.

5-8 p.m.— Drinks at El Tabanu 

The view of the beach from El Tabanu. (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta)

The view of Playa Palombina from El Tabanu (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta).

El Tabanu is a hotel with a bar and restaurant located on Playa Palombina. The bar has a terrace that overlooks the beach where drinks and tapas are served all day. The most popular drinks are Vermouth and a Clara, which is a beer mixed with sprite.

9-11 p.m.— Dinner at Restaurante Chiqui

Restaurante Chiqui is owned by a family that has lived in Celorio for generations. The restaurant was passed down to the original owner’s son, who now works as the chef and manager of the restaurant. Famous for its fresh seafood, the Merluza a la plancha, a grilled white fish, is a must order. Another popular dish is the Escalope con Cabrales, a thin breaded veal served with blue cheese made in the next town over.

11 p.m.— Night cap at Bar Epoka

Bar Epoka is owned by a man named Javi Gonzalez who grew up in Celorio. He proudly works as a bartender every weekend and highly recommends drinking a Mahou beer because his bar is the only one in town with cooled beer mugs! After a few beers, heading home is not a problem because El Gavitu is right next door.

Saturday

9-10 a.m.— Breakfast at El Gavitu

Wake up on time to make sure you catch the fresh eggs and fruit in the lobby of El Gavitu. Eggs straight from the chicken coop outside are prepared a few different ways and served with toast, fruit and coffee for those who wake up before the it’s all gone.

10 a.m.-1 p.m.— Activities with Planeta Palombina

The Planeta Palombina stand is located right before the entrance of Playa Palombina. Activities offered include: paddle boarding, kayaking, horse back riding, surfing, paint ball, biking and hiking tours. The most popular attraction is the surf lessons. The instructors are all very young and speak both English and Spanish. They train you on the beach first then help you get the board into the water and stand up. The employees of Planta Palombina are extremely helpful and you’re always in for a good time when you’re with them.

2-4 p.m.— Lunch at El Arco

An order of Merluza a la plancha for the table. (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta)

An order of Merluza a la plancha for the table (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta).

Jose, the chef at El Arco, is famous for his delicious Menú del Día, or menu of the day, options. There are always a few different starters, main plates, and desserts to choose from, all of them are guaranteed to be amazing. You can eat here a million times and never eat the same thing twice. The homemade arroz con leche is strongly recommended and always on the menu.

4-9 p.m.— Train to Llanes for Shopping

Right outside the town there is a train station that will take you to Llanes, a bigger city about 4.5 miles away from Celorio. There are numerous boutiques and shops to stroll through, most of which are very affordable. Some shops even have a universal price for all items, so everything from shoes to tops will cost the same.

9-11 p.m.- Dinner at Mirador del Toro

Mirador del Toro is one of the best restaurants in Llanes. Overlooking Playa del Toro, the restaurant has its own underwater

The view from the outdoor seating at Mirador del Toro. (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta)

The view from the outdoor seating at Mirador del Toro (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta).

mechanism to catch fish, ensuring that the restaurant serves the freshest fish possible. Highly recommended as an appetizer are the fritos de pixin, lightly fried white fish nuggets. As a main course, the fish of the day is always delicious. The waiters are very helpful with recommendations.

11 p.m.— Bar scene in Llanes

A short walk from Mirador del Toro, there is a whole street of bars. Chibiski del Chilito is a good bar to start at. The bar serves its drinks in big glasses with fun neon colored straws. If you are looking to try a traditional drink, try the calimocho, red wine mixed with Coke. This drink is very popular among the young crowd in Asturias. You will often see a group of people drinking out of a bottle of Coke, half of which they poured out and replaced with red wine. After Chibiski del Chilito, there are several bars on the street that are fun.

Sunday

8-11 a.m.— Walk to San Martin 

Wake up early today because this walk is very worth it. The front desk at El Gavitu will give you a walking guide brochure to guide you to San Martin. The walk is approximately 1.5 miles and takes about 30 minutes. On the walk, you will pass wild horses, numerous groups of cows and historic sites. Keep walking to find the most beautiful beach in the country. It is recommended to go when the tide is low so that you can walk from Playa de San Martin to its neighboring beaches.

San Martin Beach during low tide. (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta)

San Martin Beach during low tide (Photo by Katy Vidaurreta).

11 a.m.-12 p.m.— Chocolate con Churros at La Tortulia

On your way back to your hotel, you will pass La Tortulia. Stop there for some chocolate con churros to gain back all those calories you lost on your long walk to San Martin. Chocolate con churros is a dish of fried dough served with hot chocolate to dip in. It is a traditional Spanish snack, that is often eaten as a late breakfast.

If You Go:

  • El Gavitu- Bº Abajo, s/n, 33595 Celorio, Asturias, Spain
  • La Tortulia- Edificio Palombina, Calle Celoriu, s/n, 33595 Celorio, Asturias, Spain
  • El Tabanu- Playa Palombina, s/n, 33595 Celorio, Asturias, Spain
  • Restaurante Chiqui- Camino Central, 33595 Celorio, Asturias, Spain
  • Bar Epoka- Camino Central, 33595 Celorio, Asturias, Spain
  • El Arco- AS-263, s/n, 33595 Llanes, Asturias, Spain
  • Mirador del Toro- Av de Toró, 42, 33500 Llanes, Asturias, Spain
  • Getting there: arrive at the Aeropuerto de Asturias in Oviedo or at Aeropuerto Seve Ballesteros – Santander, both of which are an hour drive to Celorio